New York Fashion Week Recap Part 2
Proenza Schouler was founded in 2002 by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who met while studying at Parsons School of Design. The two collaborated on thier senior project, and the collection was bought in its entirety by Barneys New York. Since then, Proenza Schouler has won several CFDA awards, and is now sold in over 100 of the most exclusive retailers around the world.
The duo broke hearts this season by announcing that they will be showing their next collections in Paris instead of New York, but the Fall 2017 show felt like an ode to New York, and an affectionate sendoff. I would most decisively use the word "Dominant" to describe the latest collection, but not in a creepy fifty shades sort of way, more like a powerful and confident New York woman who is unassumingly cool. lather, layers, technical knits, and feminine slips walked Proenza Schouler's final NY runway, and it was a great one.
This Brooklyn-raised designer always loved fashion, and after a brief period at The Fashion Institute of Technology, went to work for Oscar de la Renta, and Lanvin. She launched her first line for Resort 2014, and has been a favorite ever since with her whimsical and fantastical designs.
Rosie Assoulin has taken her statement daywear to an entirely new level. Blending real flowers with children's smiley-face stickers in between layers of silk balanced her playful style, and her chunky textured knits and wooden heels of her debut shoe collection give off almost furniture or home-textile element in the way it was presented. All in all, her whimisal and crafty designs did not dissapoint.
The name, according to the dictionary means "one devoid of most moral or sexual restraints" and that is very apparent in thier collections, but in the best way possible. The genius of Johnson Hartig, the founder and designer, can be seen in his avant-garde ready-to-wear collections for his label Libertine. Its fans span the globe, with everyone from Mick Jagger to Taylor Swift donning Hartig's in your face designs.
Though still radical compared to most, Libertine's color palette for the Fall 17 collection was far paired down from previous seasons. I wasn't certain how he would follow his last show, with vibrant hues that slapped you in the face, and an overwhelming theme of anarchy, but his new tact of party while you still can is impressively fresh. Heavy embroidery and sequins, leopard prints mixed with florals, and the overall more-is-more philosophy dominated his runway.
This is Indian-American designer is known for his intricately detailed and ornate garments that transport viewers into a fantasy world. His father was a textile and garment maker for the wealthiest members of Indian society, so design was in his blood. After moving to the states, he apprenticed at Halston, before launching his own label in 2003. He has dressed some of the largest celebrities and members of royalty including Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Michelle Obama, and Katherine Middleton.
With his Fall 2017 Collection, Khan has fully shifted his focus away from the Hollywood Starlet to the younger, social media and street style savvy, millennial woman. The first three looks were all pajama pant looks with lace bralettes and some of his stronger pieces featured bomber jackets, velvet fabrics, and heavy embroidery, all of which appeal to his new demographic. Khan's was one of the strongest shows of NYFW, and his line is sure to blow up your Instagram feed in no time.
Whimsical, vintage-inspired, and ultra-feminine, Stacey Bendent's label, Alice + Olivia, has been a cult-followed favorite since it's launch in 2002. Her original goal was to make trousers feminine and sexy, and she launched a 20-piece collection shown in The Russian Tea Room in NYC. Since then, she has expanded to incorporate all clothing categories, as well as shoes, handbags, and accessories
Bendet based her inspiration for her Fall '17 collection off the novel The Enchantress of Florence. Both Italian and Indian influences paved the way for this decadent collection, borrowing Renaissance art both literally (with Boticelli's Primavera adorning several pieces) and figuratively, with opulent fabrics and textures woven throughout the assortment.
Zac Posen is a New York Native, growing up in Soho, and attended Central Saint Martins University before moving back to New York and setting up his Tribeca Atelier. Zac is best known for his sophisticated and breathtaking evening gowns, and as well as being Creative Director for Womenswear at Brooks Brothers, and he is a favorite of many Hollywood celebrities and New York's affluent.
This season, Posen moved slightly away from his enchanting gowns, though the collection was still definitely on a dressed-up side. The looks were shot in his parents old home in Soho, and those photos were showcased at his old Tribeca atelier. There were very simple, as well as extremely technical designs (one made entirely from lengthwise-sewn velvet ribbons) but true to himself, most pieces still showcased his expertise in sculptural draping.
The preppy-boho all-American fashion house, which launched in 2004, is owned a and designed by Tory Burch herself. Burch grew up in Pennsylvania, and after opening a shop in New York's Nolita neighborhood, her brand became a sensation almost overnight. Burch is listed as the 73rd most powerful woman by Forbes, and her colorful and versatile designs are popular with women of all ages.
Inspired by Katharine Hepburn’s character in The Philadelphia Story, Burch brought Philidephia aristocracy to her runway (appropriate, since it's her hometown) and to the surprise and (personally) delight, her typical double-T logo was replaced by a gilded TB which was placed carefully at the edges of coats, and on sophisticated neckties. Burch accomplished bringing older Bon Ton glamour into modern fashion, and she did it flawlessly.
What was your favorite NY show?? let me know in the comments below, and get ready for London coming up next!