New York Fashion Week Recap Part 1
It's that time of the year again. When people flood the world's fashion capitals for some of the largest names in fashion to show their collections. There are hundreds of shows, but I'll be covering a handful of my favorites throughout the season.
We kick off in my neighborhood, New York, and after that move to London, Milan, and Paris. Get ready, because there's about to be a flood of high fashion coming at you in the next month!
Here's the first round of New York shows!
Nicholas K is often describes as "the urban nomad". Inspired by military uniform, urban street style, and other utilitarian fashions to form collections that convey a need for travel, exploration, and a connection to nature in the modern urban jungle. Nicholas studied at The Fashion Institute of Technology, and after working for DKNY and Coach, among others, she teamed up with her brother Christopher to launch Nicholas K.
Their Fall 2017 RTW Collection had a rebellious militant vibe to it that was blended with 90's hip-hop glamour. Their opening look was a gold metallic trench coat with a black-panther-esque beret that stormed the runway. The rest of the collection blended leather, shearling, velvet, and floatier fabrics that created a utilitarian but somehow sensual mood.
One of my longtime favorites, the whimsical and playful Kate Spade never fails to pack a punch. Started in 1993 by Kate and Andy Spade as a line of utilitarian but stylish handbags, the label is now a womenswear powerhouse and lifestyle brand with a cult following. Currently, Kate Spade's Chief Creative Officer, Deborah Lloyd oversees the brand, and once again, she has not disappointed.
The Fall 2017 collection was presented at NYC's icon, The Russian Tea Room, and Lloyd's continuing affection for eastern influence can be seen in her Slavic-style florals, and bold cheetah prints, on opulent cape-coats and floaty dresses. Some of my favorite looks were her vivid-red cape coat and her militant green lady-jacket and culotte set that married the whimsical aestetic of Kate Spade to a more high-fashion vibe.
Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs founded thier namesake brand in 2008, and have since then become a powerhouse in New York fashion. Nominated for multiple awards, and dressing celebrities from Reese Witherspoon to Michelle Obama, their New York made designs have caught the attention of everyone. Cushnie et Ochs collections have a powerful femininity that takes over whether on a runway or in a room.
Their Fall 2017 definitely stayed true to the Cushnie et Ochs aesthetic. The runways were dominated by powerful but sensual models. Whether it was a blazer or a ball gown, the designs brought the perfect balance of power and femininity. The duo is traditionally known for making body-con and cut-out silhouettes sophisticated, and they stuck with that branding through most of the show, but with elegant punches of sequins, brushed velvet, and thread-thin straps to shake up thier designs.
Deemed "Fashion's Andy Warhol" Jeremy Scott, owner of his namesake label and Creative Director for Moschino, has his reputation as the rebel of the fashion world. In 1997, he launched his label in a bar near Bastille, France, showing designs made from paper hospital gowns. Since then, he has dressed almost every major popstar such as Madonna, Brittany Spears, Lady Gaga, Beyonce, Rita Ora, and Rihanna. His designs most often include elements of pop-culture such as Looney Tunes, Barbie, or McDonalds.
Scott's Fall 17 show was an explosion of playfulness mixed with rage. Clearly, he's not too happy with the state of affairs, and it translated onto his runway in a powerful way. I love the way Maya Singer from Vogue put it, "It was like the sartorial equivalent of that LGBTQ dance party in front of Mike Pence’s house". It was an explosion of pride and expression, and it was stunning.
If you're not sure what J.Crew is (Do you live under a rock?) the all-american retailer has been showing it's Collection line at NYFW since 2010, which is a more fashion-forward and avant guarde line that it's traditional assortment is then inspired by.
Their Fall 2017 collection was an insane mash-up of textures, and they returned to their preppy roots while shedding the preppy stereotype. (i.e. instead of traditional kakis and a blazer, the pants were slouchy and camo-printed and the blazers were a vivid yellow velvet) J.Crew's Collection this season is an old friend with a fresh viewpoint
One of my favorite designers, Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010, and creates luxury ready-to-wear that balances masculine strength and feminine sensuality. After working as a buyer, he honed his design skills at both Parsons and FIT, and is the 2015 recipient of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
His Fall 2017 show brought out a Spanish opulence and decadence that was beautiful, though not as highly received as his past collections. There was an abundance of frill, beading, intricate lace, and tulle that were conceptualized and constructed beautifully, and there is no doubt that his design elements will trickle down to retailer collections, but it felt a little too fantasy for the current mood in New York.
The Nepal native moved to NYC in 1999, studying at Parsons School of Design, and earning the title of "Best Designer" at the annual Parsons/FIT design competition in his first year there. He designed at Donna Karan, Cynthia Rowley and Bill Blass before launching his own label in 2009. Gurung's collections have an astute sense of glamour, and are made almost entirely in New York City.
In terms of his designs, Gurung's show was very familiar. He used elements that are regularly recognized as being his style, such as cinching rope-tie belts and unfastened silk-buttons that usually adorn bridal gowns, but the real uproar from his show came at the end, when the models walked the runway wearing tee's with slogans such as "The Future Is Female" and "I Am An Immigrant". Another surprising part of his show was casting models Candice Huffine and Marquita Pring, who are not the typical 0-4 size runway model.
See you on Thursday with the remainder of the NY shows!