And we move on to our next fashion capital! Last week held Part 1 and Part 2 of New York Fashion Week, and now we get to see our favorite British designers show off!This first round has some of my personal favorites (Hello Markus Lupfer and Anya Hindmarch) and Round 2 will be up on Wednesday!
Simone Rocha was born in Dublin, Ireland in 1986. She graduated from The National College of Art and Design in Dublin before getting a Masters at Central Saint Martin’s in London. Simone debuted at London Fashion Week in September 2010. Her designs have a terrible femininity, with melancholy odes to Elizabeth I, and themes that juxtapose extreme ladylike-ness with an almost gothic edge.
Rocha's fall collection had a heavy militaristic theme to it, but with a fresh shot of feminine florals to break up the line. Rocha's collection was about the quiet strength that women posses, and about peace and serenity in this tumultuous period of history. Another notable element of her collection was her devotion to inclusivity. Rocha wants women of all ages to feel confident in her designs, and that was showcased beautifully, with models ranging from 20 to 80 years old walking her runway.
A personal favorite, Markus Lupfer has been creating his so-called "humorously subversive knitwear" since his senior debut collection in 1997. His iconic sequinned sweaters have earned him a cult following in that they balance the line between luxurious, playful, and approachable. (I wore a particular favorite here). Lupfer loves quirky pattern, print, embroidery, and tasteful sequins to make unique pieces for unique women.
Lupfer has definitely caught the athlesiure bug. Metallic tights under skirts, drawstring sport-sacs (one with a sequinned penguin) and oversized bomber jackets that the models practically drowned in, gave a sporty vibe even among his bug-jeweled mesh inserts. Lupfer has a talent for throwing an array of erratic ideas into a collection and churning out somethig mesmurising.
Print and pattern is the name of Katrantzou's name. This Greek designer made her name from her 2008 show where she wowed Vogue's editors with prints “almost beyond imaginable limits.”She has a BA in Textile design and an MA in Fashion form Central Saint Martins, and has always loved the way patterns can change the shape of a woman's body. (I also had the privilege of briefly meeting her last spring, and she is just as vibrant and fun as her designs!)
Katrantzou's Fall collection was surprisingly toned down compared to past seasons. Her color palette was a bit more tailored, as were her garments, particularly the tweed suiting she peppered in to the lineup. Several peices were inspired by the 1940's Disney film, Fantasia, and motifs from the film could be seen floating among waves of gauzey fabric.
Starting her line at just 18 years old, Anya Hindmarch imported Italian-made bags to the UK, where they sold famously. She began putting her own personalized "British humor" on them, and have since become a favorite among fashion's elite. Her quirky and fun accessories has made her a top designer, and she is the on;y accessories designer to show at Fashion Week.
For Fall '17, Hindmarch set a fleet of Swedish folk-art inspired pieces down her runway complete with nordic knits, loads of shearling on collars, mules, and coats, and cable knit romper suits that will suit any fashionable snow-bunny. Her playful quirk still adorned her handbags, with leather paper-chains, animal faces, and her signature smiley-backpack.