Milan Fashion Week Part 2
And so the second round of Milan shows begins! Another two of my favorite designers, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana showed this week, and both thier collections were stunning! Jeremy Scott made some bold statements with his latest Moschino collection, and Bottega Veneta's 1940's inspired glamour shook the runways. This is the last round of Italian shows, so you know what that means: Arrivederci Milano and Bonjour Paris!
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Moschino was founded in 1983 by the Franco Moschino, and is known for its whimsical, colorful, and often eccentric designs. Following Franco's death in 1994, his assistant, Rossella Jardini, took over as Creative Director and continued his vision, until releasing the reigns to Jeremy Scott in 2013.
Jeremy Scotts collection for Moschino was all about themes we have been seeing for quite some time in the fashion industry: Excess waste, recycling, and the attainability of couture. His first model walked the runway in a an ensemble that appeared to be entirely from cardbooard and shipping tape, and subsequent looks were dressed in everything from shower curtains, ripped vogue editorials, and bubble wrap, to stuffed rats. yes, rats. In addisiton to his already bold collection, Scott himself wore a T-shirt that read: Couture is an attitude : It’s not a price point. Pressing his everpresent ideal that couture is for everyone, not just the fashion elite.
Bottega Veneta was founded in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro. By the 1970's Bottega Veneta was a favorite of the jet-set class, and though it fell out of favor for a period in the 1980's, it was bought by Gucci Group in 2001 and revitalized by Thomas Maier, its new Creative Director. Vogue dubbed the new BV as a brand of “stealth wealth”, since its bags are free of logos or outlandish branding, and the first BV runway show was presented in 2005.
Maier's collection walked, talked, and looked like the glamourous 1940's. He sent down, puffed sleeved, midi dresses with super high waists worn with ladylike black tights and waved hairdos that were reminiscent of 40's Hollywood starlets. Unlike some other designers, his collection was still sleek and form-fitting, showing off Maier's skill in modern tailoring.
Jil Sander founded her namesake label in 1968, and is credited by rekindling the relationship between professional and chic. Her less-is-more minimalisitic but high fashion designs continue to be a favorite among high-earning professional women, and the designers focus on high quality fabrics has cultivated a loyal following. Sander left her company back in 2000, making a few appearances back, but today the Creative Direction is headed by Rodolfo Paglialunga.
Paglialunga's collection for Fall can be summed up in one word: oversized. Waif-like models were swallowed in layer and layers of suiting fabric and this seasons most unexpected trend, puffer fabric. It was on everything from cropped jackets to dresses, and paired perfectly with his shoulder-pad laiden blazers paired with billowly culottes and al-line or tulip cut skirts.
Salvatore Ferragamo emigrated to California in 1914 and began making shoes for moviestars and films. In 1927, he moved back to Italy and opened his own shoe company, which hit hard times in the 30's, but by the end of WWII was flourishing. Salvatore passed in 1960, though his comapny is still run by his wife and children. As of 2016, Paul Andrew was named Design Director of Women's Footwear, and Fulvio Rigoni was named Design director of Women's RTW.
Rigoni described his second collection for Ferregamo as “dynamic, sensual, luxe, comfortable”. He sent sleek, dove grey leather blazers and sophisticated turtlenecks in beautiful fabrics that embodied the subtly luxurious style of Italian women. Rigoni sent down opera-length gloves, seafoam colored slipdresses, and sleek professional but fashionable emsembles in neautral shades of grey.
Dolce & Gabbana
D&G was founded by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. They met in a nighclub in Milan, and designed for the same Italian fashion house. They presented their first women's collection in 1985, and have been inspired by a myriad of italian cinematic starlets such as Anna Magnani, Sofia Loren, and Isabella Rossellini. The famous quote by Stefano Gabbana, "We’re not about minimalism; we’re massimalismo,” embodies the D&G design aestetic, with thier pleathora of textures, materials, colors, and inspirations.
Just as walked their debut show in 1985, a plethora of models, men and women off all ages and sizes walked their Fall 2017 runway in clothes that they themselves picked out and put together. Members of European royalty, celebrities, toddlers, and models alike donned D&G's eccentric collection, and further pushed the designers ideals of food, family, and fun in the everyday, and togetherness of DG Famiglia.